Main ingredients: water and pea protein (18%)
Very disappointed – I had tipped this one to be my winner. It cooked like a “normal” meat burger, but the texture was rubbery and dry. Lacking in flavour.
Main ingredient: soya protein (53%)
I really didn’t enjoy this burger. It looks more like an underseasoned rump steak. Lacking flavour and seasoning.
Main ingredients: soya and wheat protein (43%)
I was really disappointed by this, as I expected it to be a crowd-pleaser, based on the grill marks reminiscent of barbecues. The taste was bland and boring and the texture was lacking in substance.
Main ingredient: soya (58%)
Lacking in flavour, seasoning and substance. No distinctive flavour. I’ll stick to the sausages.
Main ingredient: potato (28%)
This was more akin to a nut roast than a burger. Good umami flavour, but the texture didn’t hold well enough. Not what it says on the label; otherwise, very tasty.
Main ingredient: mushrooms (86%)
This feels pretty outdated, as if it belongs in the 70s. It is a mushroom stuffed with more mushrooms, meaning the texture is too mushy. It doesn’t really taste of much and lacks seasoning.
Main ingredient: mushrooms (24%)
If imitation meats aren’t for you, this has your name on it. It has a good mixture of vegetables, including sweetcorn, peas and carrot, with hints of coriander and chilli. Unfortunately, it falls apart easily.
Main ingredients: water and pea protein (20%)
This caught me by surprise – especially considering the price. The flavours are well balanced and the texture is succulent. I enjoyed it a lot.
Main ingredients: water, pea and soya protein (15%)
This is really close to a traditional meat burger. Not only does it have the look and texture of the real deal, but it is also bursting with flavour: smoky, peppery and buttery. I will certainly have this again.
Main ingredients: water and pea protein (16%)
My winner. It boasts a juicy and convincingly meaty texture, with a brilliantly beefy flavour and a moreish pink centre.
Max La Manna is the author of More Plants Less Waste (Hodder & Stoughton, £22). To support the Guardian and the Observer, order your copy at guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply. Find Max’s plant-based recipes on Instagram and TikTok