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The empty shelves crisis isn’t just down to Covid and Brexit – it’s been decades in the making

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The retail phenomenon of 2021 is not a new fashion craze, electronic gadget or children’s toy. The most discussed items in today’s shops are “empty shelves”. And as the problems have grown, the arguments have raged: w ...

How to make the perfect gluten-free chocolate chip cookies – recipe

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Everyone loves chocolate chip cookies. Sadly, tuttavia, if you can’t tolerate gluten, chocolate chip cookies do not usually love you back – while squidgy brownies and many other deliciously squidgy cakes don’t really s...

How to make the perfect creamed corn – recipe

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Corn in this country has two distinct seasons: tuna-and-sweetcorn sandwich season, which runs from October to July, and the current barbecued corn on the cob season, in which we choose to floss our gums on something t...

How to make aubergine parmigiana – recipe

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Melanzane alla parmigiana is one of those deliciously warming dishes that, molten from the oven, can feel more suited to a British winter than a Neapolitan August, despite the distinctly summery ingredients list. Left...

How to make the perfect lamingtons – recipe

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Lamingtons are one of those things, like Tim Tams and toad racing, that are big in Australia but, despite the best efforts of the residents of Ramsay Street, almost unknown elsewhere. Antipodeans of my acquaintance, h...

How to make cherry clafoutis – recipe

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Cherries, like asparagus or the 99 Flake, are one of those foods I can’t get enough of during their brief but glorious season. My favourite way to eat them is straight from the bag, but I occasionally manage to hold o...

How to make courgette (and other summer veg) fritters – recipe

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As any gardener who’s ever bedded in a courgette plant in spring, fondly imagining they’ll make a couple of chargrilled Ottolenghi salads, will testify, they’re fecund little things – a happy courgette plant will prod...

How to make apricot tart – recipe

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Apricots are one of those fruits that, in Britain at least, promise so much, yet often deliver minor disappointment: dreams of velvety, perfumed flesh are dashed in a single, stringy bite or, worse, an entire mouthful...

How to make the perfect vegan coconut ice-cream – recipe

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Plant-based ice-cream, like so much else in the vegan world, has come on leaps and bounds in both range and quality in recent years as the market for it has grown, but many commercial varieties still replace dairy and...

How to make ajo blanco – recipe

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Gutsy, garlicky gazpacho may be more famous internationally, but quieter, creamier ajo blanco is my soup of choice when the temperature soars past the point where solid food appeals. Almonds have been a staple in sunn...

How to make American tomato pie – recipe

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Tomato pie is a classic of the American south, a region blessed with the kind of long, hot summers that make a glut of ripe produce an annual certainty – North Carolina chef Vivian Howard describes the dish as “someth...

How to make scotch eggs – recipe

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Is there a more perfect picnic food than a scotch egg? Easy to prepare the night before, robustly portable, best eaten with your hands and substantial enough to fuel a walk home, the small but satisfying theatrics of ...

How to make churros – recipe

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I’ve always quietly assumed I didn’t like churros. Quietly, because to deny the attraction of these hot, crisp, sugar-dusted sticks of deep-fried dough is surely to reveal oneself as the worst kind of joyless grinch. ...

How to make summer minestrone – recipe

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Minestrone is, in the grand tradition of many of the best soups, almost infinitely adaptable, and reliably capable of stretching a little to feel like a feast. There is no definitive way to make it – it’s more of a co...

How to make the perfect cheese empanadas – recipe

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Elisabeth Lambert Ortiz claimed that one could write a small book on empanadas, empanaditas, pasteles, pastelitos, empadinhas and pastèzinhos … namely, “those delicious turnovers, patties and pies, stuffed with meat, ...

How to make the perfect vegan ‘fish’ (AKA tofish) – recipe

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I’m no tofu expert – in fact, I’d go so far as to describe myself as a reformed sceptic – but there are two things I do know about it: primo, its creamy blandness is a great foil for other flavours (see mapo tofu); un...

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