Tag: Felicity

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How to make the perfect Basque cheesecake – recipe

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At first glance, the Basque cheesecake has the look of a terrible mistake. The first time I made it, in the somewhat unlikely setting of a south London shelter for those experiencing homelessness over Christmas, diner...

How to make shortbread – recipe

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The world may have gone mad for spiced speculoos this year, but, for me, Christmas will always be all about two biscuits: gingerbread, for decorations, and shortbread, for actual consumption. Easy to make and a genuin...

How to make gratin dauphinois – recipe

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Is there any culinary pleasure like a creamy, carby dish of dauphinoise potatoes? Well, perhaps a mound of buttery mash, a fluffy jacket potato with melted cheese or a big pile of chips with rich, yellow mayonnaise – ...

How to make vegetable biryani – recipe

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Though found in myriad forms on menus throughout India, the best biryanis are often said to come from Lucknow in the north-west and Hyderabad farther south, though Kolkata sometimes gets a look in, too. None, it must ...

How to make parkin – recipe

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This deliciously sticky ginger cake from the north of England is traditionally eaten around Bonfire Night, when its dense oatiness makes it the perfect thing to pass round from a tin as you watch the fireworks. Robust...

How to make pumpkin soup – recipe

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It’s that time of year when the cookery writer’s thoughts turn, somewhat reluctantly, to pumpkins. Reluctantly because there’s only one reason an editor suggests a pumpkin recipe in October, and that’s a well-meaning,...

How to make rye bread – recipe

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Until recently, rye bread fell into the category of foods I loved but preferred to leave to the experts (see also croissants, yoghurt and proper chips). I’d written recipes in the past, but, in an effort to make them ...

It was Tory governments that created the low-wage economy – not immigration

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For the past week, senior Conservatives have been taking to the airwaves to talk about the new economic model they are apparently creating. A “high-wage, high-skill, high-productivity economy”, their new enthusiasm sp...

How to make the perfect pad kra pao, or Thai stir-fry – recipe

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This gloriously aromatic stir-fry is the Thai equivalent “of a sandwich or a burger”, says chef and YouTube star Pailin Chongchitnant. “Something quick, easy and ubiquitous that lots of people have for lunch.” The Tha...

How to make the perfect Korean fried chicken – recipe

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“Koreans,” according to Vice magazine, “are the undisputed Asian masters of chicken.” I suspect there may be some dispute over this, but even a few Filipinos, themselves no slouches when it comes to chicken, concede S...

Less meat is good for us and the planet – why are politicians shy to say so?

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The case for cutting meat consumption is so compelling that you would think politicians would be less shy about making it. Yet while campaigners warn with increasing urgency that global livestock production is acceler...

How to make tiramisu – recipe

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Jonathan Coe was once “politely” reprimanded by an Italian journalist for sending a character in his novel Expo 58 to a Soho trattoria for lasagne and tiramisu, a year before (depending on who you believe) the boozy d...

How to make panzanella – recipe

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Every bread-eating culture around the world has as many recipes for using up stale loaves as for bread itself: pain perdu, fattoush, roti curry … Panzanella is one of Italy’s A-team, making a virtue of the bread’s spo...

The empty shelves crisis isn’t just down to Covid and Brexit – it’s been decades in the making

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The retail phenomenon of 2021 is not a new fashion craze, electronic gadget or children’s toy. The most discussed items in today’s shops are “empty shelves”. And as the problems have grown, the arguments have raged: w...

How to make the perfect gluten-free chocolate chip cookies – recipe

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Everyone loves chocolate chip cookies. Sadly, however, if you can’t tolerate gluten, chocolate chip cookies do not usually love you back – while squidgy brownies and many other deliciously squidgy cakes don’t really s...

How to make the perfect creamed corn – recipe

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Corn in this country has two distinct seasons: tuna-and-sweetcorn sandwich season, which runs from October to July, and the current barbecued corn on the cob season, in which we choose to floss our gums on something t...

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