Notes on chocolate: a triangular treat makes things right

Eataly in Rome, a vast emporium dedicated to food, had proved bizarrely difficult to find when we went there, and caused a huge family row. It would take a lot for a place to turn that mood around, and yet it did (I still remember the plate of pasta I ate in one of its restaurants – nothing fancy or unusual except that it was perfect).

So I was thrilled when I heard that Eataly London had opened up. Next door to Liverpool Street station, it’s well worth a visit if you are in the capital, not least for the giant sweet room and a very good representation of Venchi chocolate.

I last visited London the day before Eataly opened, so have not yet seen inside, but all the friends who have been have sent me heady, slightly gloating text messages telling me how much they loved it.

Returning from London, I found waiting for me a parcel containing Chocolarder’s Almond, Honey and Nougatine bar, £6. Made with sail-shipped almonds, Cornish honey and 50% cocoa, it is a take on a triangular treat so beloved of airport travel.

This cheered me very much indeed. Chocolarder has of late been making more dark milks. Let us not even talk of its 65% Kuapa Kokoo, £5.50, rich with flavours of toffee, which I once ate in two sittings.

My only wish for this AHN bar is that it could be chunkier, but it is otherwise superb. It is currently a limited-edition, but if ingredients allow, I suspect that it will soon become a fixture.

chocolarder.com, eataly.co.uk

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