Nigel Slater’s recipe for grilled lamb steaks and sour cream sauce

Wash 300g of new potatoes and slice them into thick coins. In a large frying pan, heat 4 tbsp of olive oil over a moderate heat, then add the slices of potato and cook them for 12-15 minutes, until they are golden. Turn the slices and cook the other side.

While the potatoes are cooking, put 150ml of chilled sour cream into a small bowl. Stir in 1 tbsp of Dijon mustard and another of capers. Remove 1 tbsp of tarragon leaves from their stems, finely chop them and add them to the sour cream. Halve 6 small gherkins lengthways, then stir them into the dressing, with a little salt and pepper. Cover and leave to chill until needed.

Lift the potatoes from the pan with a draining spoon, salt lightly and keep warm. Season a couple of lamb steaks, each about 180g in weight. Place the empty pan back on the heat and pour in a little oil – 2 tbsp is enough – then add the lamb steaks and cook until they are done to your liking (4-5 minutes on each side is probably about right).

Remove the lamb and let it rest for a few minutes. Briefly return the potatoes back to the pan, tossing them in the pan juices from the lamb.

Serve the lamb steaks with the sour cream dressing and the potatoes. Enough for 2

Rest the lamb, covered and in a warm place, for 10 minutes before serving. This will improve the juiciness of the meat just as much as it does for a large roast.

Instead of the potatoes, accompany the lamb with slices of preserved artichokes from the deli counter, cooked as the potatoes, but for only 2 or 3 minutes on each side. You could add a little chopped mint, too.

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