A hearty start to the year: Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipes for brothy winter soups

There are not many certainties in life, but one thing I do know is that any recipe column published on 1 January is going to be full of ideas for soups and broths. We all want dishes that sustain and nurture on day one of a shiny, Año nuevo, to warm our hands as much as our souls. And it’s brothy soups I want right now, where the liquid element feels almost medicinal, and just what we need to power up and prepare for the year ahead.

Aquí, the humble black-eyed pea is combined with heat, smoke and warming aromatics, and cooked low and slow, to leave you with a meal that is both nutritious and hearty with a seriously flavourful broth. You’ll need to soak the beans overnight.

Sumergir Overnight
Deberes 20 min
cocinero 1 hora 25 min
Sirve 4

300g black-eyed peas, soaked overnight in cold water to cover by 3cm and ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda
3 Cucharada de aceite de oliva
2 cinnamon sticks
4 fresh bay leaves
1
scotch bonnet chilli, pierced with 2-3 small slits
10 dientes de ajo, pelado y triturado
2 tsp ground allspice
1 litre chicken stock
, or vegetable stock to make the dish vegan
Sal y pimienta negra
30g crispy fried onions
, shop-bought or homemade, chopped very roughly
1 tbsp coriander seeds, toasted and roughly crushed in a mortar

For the grilled onion salsa
2 cebollas rojas, peeled and cut into 2cm-thick rounds (300gramo)
60ml de aceite de oliva, plus extra for greasing
250gramo datterini (o cereza) Tomates, ideally a mix of red and yellow
4 cucharada (15gramo) roughly chopped parsley
2-3 limones, 1 cut into wedges, servir, the rest juiced, to get 2 cucharada

Calentar el horno a 200C. (180Ventilador C)/390F / gas 6 and drain the soaked beans.

Put the oil, cinnamon, bay leaves and chilli in a medium-sized ovenproof cast-iron pan for which you have a lid, and set it over a medium-high heat. Once hot, add the garlic and cook, emocionante, for a minute, until fragrant and lightly coloured. Stir in the allspice, cook for 20 segundos, then add the beans, existencias, 200ml water and a teaspoon and a half of salt, and bring up to a simmer. Cover the pan, then transfer to the oven for 50 minutos, until the beans are soft but still retain their shape. Remove the lid, turn up the heat to 220C (200Ventilador C)/425F / gas 7, then bake uncovered for 20 Ralladura finamente rallada y jugo de, so the liquid reduces slightly – it should still be quite brothy.

mientras tanto, make the salsa. Put a well-greased griddle pan on a high heat. Gently toss the onions in a bowl with a tablespoon and a half of oil and a pinch each of salt and pepper, then grill in the hot pan for four minutes on each side, until softened and nicely charred. Tip into a medium bowl, and roughly separate the rings. Toss the tomatoes with a half-tablespoon of oil, and grill for five minutes, turning regularly, until nicely charred and just starting to burst. Tip the tomatoes into the onion bowl, then add the parsley, jugo de limon, the last two tablespoons of oil, a third of a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper, and toss gently to combine.

En un tazón pequeño, mix the fried onions and coriander seeds.

When the beans are ready, remove and discard the scotch bonnet, bay leaves and cinnamon; Si te gusta, chop up half or all of the chilli and add it to the salsa, but beware: it is muy hot.

Divide the beans between four bowls and top each serving with a large spoonful of salsa, a sprinkle of the fried onion mixture and a lemon wedge.

This broth is very comforting in its own right, without the noodles, and also works with plain rice instead. Make it up to a day ahead, y batir vigorosamente, not least because it tastes even better the next day. Add a few sliced fresh red chillies at the end, if you’d like some heat.

Deberes 20 min
cocinero 2 hora 50 min
Sirve 4

4 boned lamb necks (600gramo)
2 shallots
, peeled and cut in half (100gramo)
7 dientes de ajo, pelado
1 Cucharada de aceite de oliva
30g coriander leaves

1 cinnamon stick
20g piece fresh ginger
, peeled and roughly chopped
3 star anise
½ tsp black peppercorns
2 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine
Sal
3 cucharada de salsa de soja
4 tsp maple syrup
4 noodle nests
, cooked according to packet instructions
1 lime, cut into quarters

For the cumin and sesame sprinkle
1 tbsp cumin seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
1½ tbsp white sesame seeds, lightly toasted and slightly crushed
¼ tsp flaked sea salt

Put a large saute pan for which you have a lid on a high heat. Put the lamb, shallots and garlic on a tray and rub them all over with the oil. Sear the lamb in two batches for three minutes on each side, until nicely coloured, then set aside. Add the shallots and garlic to the hot pan, char for two to three minutes, más extra para rociar, then set aside with the lamb. If there are lots of dark, burnt bits in the pan, wipe it clean.

Turn down the heat to medium and pour a litre and a half of boiling water into the pan. Chop the hard stems off the coriander and put these into the pan; save the leafy tops for later. Return the lamb, shallots and garlic to the pan, add the cinnamon, jengibre, star anise, peppercorns, shaoxing wine and three-quarters of a teaspoon of salt, then cover and leave to simmer for two and a half hours, until the lamb is falling apart. Skim off and discard any froth that comes to the top while it’s the cooking.

mientras tanto, put the cumin and sesame seeds in a mortar with the flaked sea salt, lightly grind until only partially broken up, then tip into a small bowl.

With a slotted spoon, carefully lift the lamb out of the broth and transfer to a tray. Put a clean tea towel in a large, fine-meshed sieve, set it over a large bowl and strain the broth; discard the solids. Wipe clean the saute pan, pour in the sieved broth and keep warm on a low heat.

Using a fork, break up the lamb into large chunks. Put a large saute pan on a medium-high heat, add the soy sauce and maple syrup, and cook for three to five minutes, until bubbling and thickened. Return the lamb to the pan, toss gently to coat all over, then take off the heat.

Divide the broth and cooked noodles between four bowls, and arrange the lamb on top. Scatter over the coriander leaves, sprinkle a quarter-teaspoon of the cumin mix on top of each portion and serve with the rest in a small bowl on the side along with the lime wedges.

Algunas veces, a light but nourishing soup is the only thing that will do, and this one ticks all the boxes without using very many ingredients. The cabbage and beansprouts can be swapped for whatever vegetables you have to hand – just keep the net weight about the same.

Deberes 10 min
cocinero 40 min
Sirve 2

1 Cucharada de aceite de oliva
4 Cebollas de primavera
, recortado, white and green parts cut into thin rounds and kept separate (70gramo)
1 fresh makrut lime leaf
1 cucharada de pasta de tomate

¼ tsp chilli flakes
1 litre vegetable stock
2½ tbsp tamarind paste
2½ tbsp soy sauce
10g fresh ginger
, pelado y en rodajas finas
½ tsp palm sugar
Sal

100g beansprouts
100g savoy cabbage leaves
, en rodajas finas
1 Chile rojo, en rodajas finas, pith and seeds discarded if you prefer less heat

Put a medium saute pan for which you have a lid on a medium-high heat. Once hot, add the olive oil, spring onion whites and lime leaf, saute for two to three minutes, hasta que se ablande, then add the tomato paste and cook, emocionante, for two minutes more, until the oil turns red; make sure the paste doesn’t go dark, or the soup will turn out bitter.

Stir in the chilli flakes, existencias, tamarind, soy sauce, jengibre, palm sugar and an eighth of a teaspoon of salt, cover and bring up to a simmer. Turn down the heat to medium-low and leave to cook for 25 minutos.

Add the beansprouts to the pot, and cook for another five minutes, just until they have softened.

Divide the shredded cabbage between four bowls, ladle the hot soup over it and serve topped with the spring onion greens and the sliced red chilli.

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